Of all the beautiful spots in the beautiful Cinque Terre, Vernazza is certainly the most beloved by photographers and painters…and book cover designers…
It’s a dream to arrive to this village on the path from Corniglia…
The view is crowned by the Belforte tower and Doria Castle, named after the powerful Doria family from Genoa. (BTW, as I’m always highlighting HERstory, the name Doria actually came from a 12th century Genoese noblewoman, Auria, who married a noble pilgrim who went off to fight the first crusades in Jerusalem. The name was originally, in Latin, de filius Auirae=Sons of Auria).
If you arrive to Vernazza by boat, the harbor scene immediately enchants…
In the Marconi Piazza is the church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia--a marvel of Ligurian Gothic architecture.
As the story goes, Santa Margherita’s bones washed up on the Vernazza beach in the 11th century, and a smaller church was built to house the relics. Then came a storm, the relics were lost, and when they reappeared In 1308, this beauty was built. Over the centuries the interior was changed and baroque-icized. Do go inside to admire the sea view from the curvy windows…and light candles…
WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT, SANTA MARGHERITA?
Margherita was a 4th century beauty, born in Antioch to pagan parents. When her mother died, she was raised by a Christian nanny, and converted to Catholicism. Her great beauty attracted the eye of Olybrius, a Roman pagan big-wig. When she steadfastly refused to renounce her faith and marry him, she was ordered to her death. Burning and trying to drown her was unsuccessful, so she was imprisoned, and as the Golden Legend story goes, a dragon appeared in Margherita’s cell and swallowed her whole. Inside the belly-of-the-beast, she made the sign of the cross, which caused the dragon’s stomach to burst, and she was miraculously freed. Finally, in 304, at the age of 15, she was beheaded.
Martyr Margherita became a popular saint during the Crusades, and in the 14th century, was named one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers—called upon to intercede against Germany’s Black Death. She was named as a Patron for Women in Childbirth, and invoked to cure backaches and escape from devils. Santa Margherita was also one of the voices Saint Joan of Arc heard, that inspired the heroine to lead French troops into battle.
If you are in Vernazza July 20, for the Feast of Santa Margherita, you’ll be treated to a great celebration, with outdoor food stalls, a procession from the church, and fireworks filling the night sky.
Any day is marvelous to linger in this village and taste it’s deliciousness…
A FEW OF MY FAVORITE PLACES TO EAT IN VERNAZZA….
Be sure to reserve in advance, especially for the first two!
Belforte, is set dramatically above the sea. Settle on to the terrace for amazing fresh anchovies, Spaghetti Bruno with seafood, and swoon-inspiring-spiked-with-vodka lemon sorbet…this is one of those meals for the memory books…
Gianni Franzi puts you smack in the midst of the lovely piazza, shaded under colorful umbrellas. You’ll adore the fun service, and excellently prepared Ligurian classics–including trofie al pesto and ravioli stuffed with seafood…
Trattoria da Sandro is a folksy, family run establishment on Via Roma, that’s famous for its stuffed mussels, along with classic pastas, and delicious warm octopus salad…
How about joining me in Italy for delicious fun?
6 Spots Left for Golden Week in Florence and the Italian Riviera (Sept 28-Oct 7, 2019)… includes an amazing day in the Cinque Terre, with lunchtime in Vernazza!
