My sisters and I had an extraordinary time traveling through Sicily with an AutoEurope Car Rental in springtime— on roads bordered by blooming ginestra and poppies.
It’s wonderful to discover the island on a road trip, as there are so many beautiful places that can be complicated to reach by train or bus. And who wants complications on an Italian vacation?
Auto Europe Car Rental made the adventure EASY – from their simple online reservation system to a clear contract with no hidden costs. I’ve rented with them for decades and they’ve always come through with the best prices and great customer service.
Traveling by car in Sicily we were free to make our own travel schedule—not tied to public timetables. And as the spring weather was so variable, this was essential to a fun trip. There was the sunny day when we lingered around the temples of Selinunte and enjoyed granita, then the rainy day in Ragusa where we scurried for cover in the car and cut the visit short.
We began our driving adventure at the Catania airport, where a friendly signor checked us in with no long line and no haggling about buying extra car insurance. By the way, I always pick-up and drop-off car rentals at airports when driving in Italy – it’s easier than dealing with city traffic and driving restrictions in historic centers.
Over our ten-day road trip, from Catania to Palermo, we experienced many well known Sicily destinations—Siracusa and Ortigia, baroque towns of Noto and Ragusa, Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, the seaside town of Sciacca, and the hilltop village of Erice.
And we made happy memories in between with these off-the-beaten track places.
Five Sicily Discoveries by Car
Caltagirone – 1.5 hours from Catania, 1.5 hours to Ortigia
Caltagirone is nicknamed The City of Ceramics, as pottery has been made there since 2000 BC. Ceramic making flourished in the Renaissance, with kilns operating 24 hours a day.
The centerpiece of Caltagirone’s historic center is the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte (Staircase of Santa Maria del Monte) made up of 142 steps, each adorned with vibrantly painted ceramic tiles, with patterns ranging from Moorish to Baroque.
Surrounding the steps are ceramic shops, where artisans continue Caltigirone’s tradition. A stop to visit veteran artisan Ignazio Scarlatella was a treat.
“I’ve been making ceramics since I was born,” he joked. Then he proudly showed us a photo of a piece he made for Pope John Paul, and a room of new designs, made by his son.
Marzamemi – 1 hour from Ortigia
Marzamemi is a gem of a village, set on the Ionian Sea. It has been famous for its tradition of tuna fishing and processing since around 1000 AD, when Arabs built a tonnara here.
It was lovely to stroll along the quiet beachfront and harbor and discover the main square, Piazza Regina Margherita, surrounded by colorful caffes, restaurants, and artisan shops.
A delicious highlight was a visit to the Adelfio shop, where charming signorinas offered tastings of Marzamemi’s award-winning tuna, which made wonderful souvenirs to bring back home to my sister’s tuna-loving husband.
Selinunte – 40 minutes from Sciacca
Selinunte was a powerful Greek settlement in the 5th century BC. Today the Selinunte Parco Archaeologico, set on the sea, was extraordinary to discover, with paths connecting ruins of ancient temples.
Most impressive was Temple E, dedicated to Hera (Goddess of Marriage, Women, and Family). It was reconstructed in the 1950s, so we could enter it, and imagine dramatic ceremonies that once took place there, with torchlights, chants, and offerings from the faithful.
We had a dreamy experience there–wandering surrounded by fresh spring grass-scented breezes, stopping for granita, with views of the sparkling sea, and the ruins from long, long ago in the background.
Caltabellotta – 30 minutes from Sciacca
A quiet, winding country road took us up for a breathtaking experience in this remote village, cut into the mountains.
It was once a sacred place for the Greeks, then occupied by Arabs and Romans, and in medieval times the Normans built a castle and cathedral there.
We parked the car and walked up a zig-zag of narrow stone village paths to the Cathedral of Santissima Assunta, and were rewarded with stunning panoramic views!
Inside the cathedral an enthusiastic guide was on hand to show us around. Most impressive was the chapel of Santa Maria della Catena, decorated in Sicilian Mannerist style by the late 16th century artist Antonino Ferraro da Giuliana.
Segesta – 1.25 hours from Palermo, 40 minutes from Erice
Our last temple visit, as we drove to Erice, was the 5th century BC Temple of Segesta. There was a WOW moment at the first sight of it — majestically set on a hill, surrounded by rolling hills.
I always love places where females were worshipped, and read that in ancient times Segesta was a place dedicated to Artemis–Diana to the Romans—Goddess of the Hunt. Roman historian Cicero wrote about a famous statue of Diana in Segesta that a ruler of Sicily ordered removed, much to the unhappiness of the Segestans. In Cicero’s words: While Diana was being taken out of the city, all the women of Segesta, both married and unmarried, rushed, sprinkled her with perfumed ointments, covered her with wreaths, escorted her to the borders of their territory, burning incense and fragrant essences.”
We wouldn’t have noticed, but according to historians, the temple was never completed, as its Doric columns are rough and not fluted. The temple’s building began with a tribe called the Elymians—former Trojans, who wanted to be aligned with powerful Greeks who might protect them from their Selinute enemies to the south. In the end, Segesta was defeated in wars, and the building project abandoned.
We were surprised to find the archaeological park had a lot more than the Temple—including prehistoric sites, ruins of a Muslim village with a mosque, and a Roman theatre.
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As we drove closer to Palermo, feeling the road trip coming to an end, we pulled in randomly to a rest stop at Castellamare del Golfo. We didn’t realize we were walking into one of the most famous pasticcerias in the area—Bar La Sorgente. Inside, cases were filled with a fabulous array of goodies.
Seeing we needed help making a decision, la signora behind the counter told us to wait a few minutes, because she was just taking cassatelle out of the oven. The workmen around us heard the news and gave our order a thumbs up, telling us it was a pastry filled with ricotta and a little chocolate.
And so the road trip ended sweetly with, “The Best Pastry in Sicily” (according to my sister) AND a pistachio vendor in the parking lot, who sent us away with Sicily’s most delicious savory souvenirs.
We gave our car a thankful pat as we easily dropped her off at the Palermo Airport–Grateful for so many adventures that will be treasured in the memory books…
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