Italy (Page 12)

I began dreaming about Stresa, a jewel of a town on Lago Maggiore, in high school when I read Ernest Hemingway’s Farewell to Arms. At the end of the story he deserts the army and heads to Stresa, to the arms of the British nurse he’s crazy about. I fell into romantic imaginings about Henry and Catherine at the Hotel des Iles Borromees… More recently, I’ve discovered Stresa Sights, a beautiful blog written by Dana Kaplan (a New York native), who now lives part time in Stresa and fills her posts with gorgeous photos and great up to date info for travelers to discover theRead More →

For more fun in the Italian Alps, I’ve been hearing raves about Bella Baita B&B, a mountain retreat about an hour from Torino, in Serre Marchetto, on the French border in the Val Chisone. Guests write that their stay here was “a trip of a lifetime”. Most tell me first about the location, with its amazing views of the alps and fresh mountain air, and all the wonderful hiking, cycling and skiing around there, but then they rave even more about their hosts, Marla and Fabrizio, two profesional chefs who love guests. Marla is an American wizard of a pastry chef (so be prepared for amazing breads and sweetsRead More →

The majestic Italian alps rise to the west of Torino, offering lots of fun snow activities under gorgeous blue-violet skies. Here you’ll discover Piedmont valleys that are part of Occitania–the large Meditteranean area that stretches west through southern France, Monaco, and the Aran Valley in Spain. (Yes, you probably recognize the name from Occitane, the skincare and fragrance company that was founded in Provence). You may meet older people who still speak Occitan (saying formatge instead of formaggio, for example)— in some isolated valleys this was everyone’s first language up until as late as the 1970s. Just on the other side of the Alps isRead More →

2011 is the year to visit elegant, chic Torino. The city is pulling out the stops to celebrate the 150th Birthday of Italy’s unification, as this was the country’s first capital. Click here for Esperienza Italia info, so you can plan your trip to include wonderful art shows, performances, and other special fun things. I was fortunate to be there in early March, just before the major March 17 official birthday party, and found Torino happily decorated with Italian flags fluttering off balconies, streetlamps, and gracing store windows. With so many treasures of places to choose from, I would begin a Golden Day in Torino with a visitRead More →

Palermo is a city of so many fascinating layers, that the best way to experience it is to have a savvy local by your side. Here’s where Passage to Sicily comes in. It’s an association that offers  small group tours all over Sicily for culturally curious travelers, led by scholars, writers, and architects who bring their unique insights into Sicilian life and culture. My Roman friend, the wonderful Petulia Melideo of  Context Travel, highly recommends Passage to Sicily–and since my experiences on walking tours with Context  in Rome, Florence, Venice, and Naples have been so amazing, I’m glad to know that a similar organization exists for myRead More →

Finally we’ll explore Palermo—the first place many land in Sicily. What struck me about Palermo the first time I visited years ago was the strong Arabic influence that reveals itself in stunning architecture, colorful mosaics, and delicious ornate sweets. A Golden Day for me in Palermo is exploring La Kalsa, a quiet neighborhood where crumbling baroque buildings, Spanish-Moorish architecture, and artists’ studios blend together in an atmosphere that retains an exotic sense of the Arab port it once was. Take note that Monday is NOT the day for this, as many of the highlights are closed. A good place to start is the Palazzo Abatellis,Read More →

We’ll leave the Aeolian Islands, and head to an elegant spot in Sicily: cliffside Taormina. After Goethe “discovered” this place, it became a hotspot for artists, writers, and glitterati–beloved by Oscar Wilde, D.H. Lawrence, John Steinbeck, Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams, Liz Taylor, Monica Vitti, Sophia Loren…you get the idea. As my Sicilian friend Loredana Grasso says, putting it nicely, “It’s a gem, it’s picturesque, it can be…touristy!” Which is why Loredana is helping me guide you along a Golden Day, giving her insider’s tips. I have had some lovely stays in Taormina, with Backroads and Country Walkers, which is where I met Loredana. She is an adventurousRead More →

I’m always getting asked, “What’s your favorite….?,” which I always find impossible to answer. When it comes to Italy, I call on Goddess Venus, and go according to my mood. For a totally blissful time in the Aeolian Islands, I’d check into La Raya on Panarea, the smallest and most tranquil–no cars allowed! For a livelier spot, I choose Lipari, the largest island, that has a great archaeological museum, busy port, and it’s fun to wander the alleys where little shops, delicious restaurants, bakeries and gelato shops await. Today I’m dreaming of Salina, the greenest of the islands. I took a great hike there, up to Monte delle Felici,Read More →

Buon Anno Amici! To begin the New Year, we’re traveling to the amazing Aeolians, a cluster of 7 diverse islands that lie off the northeast coast of Sicily. We’ll start off with the most dramatic of the group, Stromboli, that rises out of the sea like a huge black cone. Its famous, flamboyant volcano erupts about every 15 minutes. Last October, on a Country Walkers trip, I had the awesome experience of climbing up to the top of the island and watching the amazing show of fireworks. The wonderful Margaret Cowan (aka Mamma Margaret) is also a Stromboli fan. I met Mamma Margaret on-line throughRead More →

One of my favorite memories of Italy 2010 was spending time with Renée Restivo in the beautiful baroque town of Noto. Renée is Sicilian-American, and I loved hearing her stories of Sunday dinners at her Aunt Sadie’s in Astoria, Queens–which is where her passion for Sicilian cuisine was born. She went on to work as an assistant at top culinary schools in New York and Italy. Then, while visiting her Sicilian cousins, she became enchanted with Noto and decided to create her own company, Soul of Sicily, here. Last October, I showed up in Noto and got the chance to sample Soul of Sicily’s cooking classes (deliciousRead More →