BLOG (Page 19)

When we think of Venice and going to the beach, the first place that comes to mind is The Lido.  My friend Pamela still talks about one August when she had what she describes as “The Great Gatsby” beach experience there–all so very luxurious, with an amazing seafood lunch, a huge pool, surrounded by loads of fashionable Italians–ladies in big hats and flowing caftans, etc. Then there’s my friend Angela, a Lido native born and bred, who says, “To get away from the crowds of the Lido in the summer, we go to Sant’Erasmo.” This is the island that lies between Murano and Burano. It’s calledRead More →

It took me several trips to Venice before I could tear myself away for the half hour train ride to Padua–NOW Padua and the Scrovegni Chapel have become a MUST on the Veneto itinerary. Padua is a jewel of a town, with a splendido open market and restaurants to match, AND The Scrovegni Chapel is at the top of my list as far as Italian masterpieces. In fact, if you showed me two doors and one was labeled SISTINE, the other SCROVEGNI…I would head for Scrovegni. Michelangelo surely got his inspiration from this chapel that was created centuries before his, by the blessed Giotto. YES the Sistine ChapelRead More →

I can always count on the wonderful people at Context Travel to take me deeper into an Italian destination. This company leads small group walking tours, led by excellent docents who are scholars, art historians, and/or authors.  One of their newest walks is called Venice and the East, where you’ll be guided through La Serenissima focusing on its  Byzantine and Islamic influences. Here’s what Context’s Jessica Stewart has to say about it: One of the things that’s always fascinated me about Venice is its longstanding connection to eastern culture.  You can see this clearly in the architecture of prominent sites like the Doge’s Palace and Basilica San Marco, but also through keepingRead More →

Way back in the 1980’s I lived in San Francisco and was involved in the town’s exciting experimental theatre scene. It was around then that I met Anne Block at a wild workshop in a warehouse south of Market. Twenty years later, we’ve reconnected and discovered that we’ve both been pursuing our passion for Italian travel. Anne has created a fantastic Los Angeles based tour company called Take My Mother Please*—that provides customized itineraries to  individuals or group travelers who want to explore  Los Angeles, Egypt, Paris, Italy, or other places in Europe.  She brings an infectious enthusiasm to whatever she does, constantly snooping out unusual spots, to give travelers an authenticRead More →

You’ll love hearing  this ensemble, Interpreti Veneziani,  when you come to Venice. You’ll find them at the Chiesa San Vidal, a beautiful Baroque place. Most nights they are playing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons (Le Quattro Stagioni). Vivaldi probably came to this church, back in those late 17th-early 18th century times. He was a revolutionary composer, bringing sweeping emotions to the violin and all those sister string instruments. Interpreti Veneziani has played here since 1987  and they are the best I’ve heard in Venice. They are praised world wide for their youthful exuberance and the clear passion they bring to this music. It’s a thrill to be inRead More →

A wonderful way to start a Venetian day is to visit the Rialto Market, following in the traditional footsteps of this magical city. The pescheria (fish market, closed Sun & Mon), tucked behind the bridge, has been a happening spot here for over 1000 years. Surrounding it are vegetable and fruit stalls. Some of the produce is local, from the nearby island of Sant’Erasmo, and some has been brought in on ships from afar. The whole scene under that stunning Venetian light: glistening fresh fish, and (depending on the season)  cabbage from Treviso, persimmons, or white asparagus–blends to make this one of Italy’s most tantalizing markets. Get there early, betweenRead More →

  Here is what led me to Nan McElroy: Italy: Instructions for Use, which she so cleverly created. I tell everyone I know who’s going to Italy that this is a Must Buy–a wonderfully designed pocket-sized quide and phrasebook that contains all the nitty-gritty details you’ll need–about making phone calls, taking trains, driving, etc.  And for anyone headed to Venice, as JoAnn Locktov wrote in Golden Day 22, you Must download Nan’s Vaporetto Map. Nan was an absolute joy and inspiration to meet the last time I was in Venice. She’s lived there since 2004 and has immersed herself into Venetian life bigtime–it’s fab to follow along with herRead More →

If you only chase down one painting in Venice, make it this one: Titian’s Assumption of Mary. It’s the centerpiece of the massive Frari–a transcendent action-packed scene of  the Blessed Virgin Mary (aka the BVM) triumphantly being swooped up to golden heaven. It caused a huge sensation when it was unveiled in 1518. The monks who commissioned it grumbled that it was way too provocative–what with the BVM looking as though she’s dancing up to get her crown. The proper way to portray her pre-Titian was to show her seated on a throne, calmy levitating. But here Titian defines the Venetian Renaissance–swirling emotions into theRead More →

One of the wonderful things that happened while I was writing 100 Places In Italy Every Woman Should Go, was that I got connected to kindred spirits–people who are as passionate about Italy as I am. One of those wonderful people is JoAnn Locktov. JoAnn is especially passionate about mosaics, and has written a critically acclaimed book, Mosaic Art and Style, and co-written two others on the topic. Mosaics naturally led JoAnn to Venice, where the interiors of the San Marco Basilica and the Romanesque church on the island of Torcello are stunning examples of this art form. Thanks to JoAnn, on my last visit to Venice, IRead More →

To begin a trip to Italy with Venice is getting into the dream world immdiately. It’s the perfect place to slow down and surrender to Italian rhythms. You walk and stretch out from the plane ride, you listen to the church bells and the lapping of the water. You feel the softness of the water and melt into the fairytale. There is no better ride from an airport than taking the boat in from Venice. I remember my first time, how the fantastical island appeared out of the fog–a place I’d seen in so many postcards, now was right there in front of me…REAL… I’dRead More →