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A 45-minute train ride from Turin takes you to the enchanting town of Asti. Yes, that’s Asti, as in Asti Spumante, that sparkling white wine that was poured at many celebrations during my Jersey shore youth. Vineyards on the outskirts of Asti, in the Monteferrato province, produce this lively wine, as well as Moscato d’Asti and lovely red Barbera d’Asti. The town of Asti is a gem to stroll through—cobblestoned streets, Gothic and Romanesque churches, and lofty towers from the 13th century that were once used to defend this place now offer beautiful views. It’s best to visit on a Wednesday or Saturday morning when a beautifulRead More →

I was thrilled a while back to discover Madeline Jhawar’s website and blog, Italy Beyond the Obvious. Madeline is a former tour guide who lived in Italy for five years and now her company offers expert custom travel planning, so visitors can get beyond traditional guidebook recommendations and interact with locals. Her wonderful blog posts combine a great mix of practical info (for example, How to Drive Like an Italian) and insider’s info on specific locations (such as the Island of Ponza).  I adore her philosophy of travel, which is all about not cramming too much into a vacation (always a challenge with Italy), butRead More →

Now to Le Langhe–those wonderous rolling hills of vineyards, where some of the world’s most beloved wines are produced: Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto d’Alba, Moscato d’Asti, Gavi…There are 750 wineries in the area. For a Golden Day, visit the Marchesi di Barolo winery in Barolo, where you can walk in for tastings, or make an appointment to tour this gorgeous historic place. The winery overlooks the Castello Falletti where Marchesa Giulia Colbert lived in the nineteenth century. She was not pleased with the wine produced from the grapes growing around her castle, so she called in a French winemaker to create a wine similar to Bordeaux, which becameRead More →

We’re heading back to the Val di Susa, west of  Turin, where I must return to see this awesome sight, one of the largest Romanesque architectural complexes in Europe: the Sacra di San Michele. This spot is a favorite of Adrian Petersen , who created Italian Reflections, a wonderful resource for travelers and foreigners who’ve relocated to Piedmont and other regions of Italy. He also has written for ItalyItalia, the Nile Guide, and Wandering Educators. Adrian and his wife Sandy moved from the UK’s southwest to Italy three years ago, are now renovating a hill top country house in this Piedmont paradise, and love exploring the beautiful countryside that surrounds them. WhenRead More →

I began dreaming about Stresa, a jewel of a town on Lago Maggiore, in high school when I read Ernest Hemingway’s Farewell to Arms. At the end of the story he deserts the army and heads to Stresa, to the arms of the British nurse he’s crazy about. I fell into romantic imaginings about Henry and Catherine at the Hotel des Iles Borromees… More recently, I’ve discovered Stresa Sights, a beautiful blog written by Dana Kaplan (a New York native), who now lives part time in Stresa and fills her posts with gorgeous photos and great up to date info for travelers to discover theRead More →

For more fun in the Italian Alps, I’ve been hearing raves about Bella Baita B&B, a mountain retreat about an hour from Torino, in Serre Marchetto, on the French border in the Val Chisone. Guests write that their stay here was “a trip of a lifetime”. Most tell me first about the location, with its amazing views of the alps and fresh mountain air, and all the wonderful hiking, cycling and skiing around there, but then they rave even more about their hosts, Marla and Fabrizio, two profesional chefs who love guests. Marla is an American wizard of a pastry chef (so be prepared for amazing breads and sweetsRead More →

The majestic Italian alps rise to the west of Torino, offering lots of fun snow activities under gorgeous blue-violet skies. Here you’ll discover Piedmont valleys that are part of Occitania–the large Meditteranean area that stretches west through southern France, Monaco, and the Aran Valley in Spain. (Yes, you probably recognize the name from Occitane, the skincare and fragrance company that was founded in Provence). You may meet older people who still speak Occitan (saying formatge instead of formaggio, for example)— in some isolated valleys this was everyone’s first language up until as late as the 1970s. Just on the other side of the Alps isRead More →

2011 is the year to visit elegant, chic Torino. The city is pulling out the stops to celebrate the 150th Birthday of Italy’s unification, as this was the country’s first capital. Click here for Esperienza Italia info, so you can plan your trip to include wonderful art shows, performances, and other special fun things. I was fortunate to be there in early March, just before the major March 17 official birthday party, and found Torino happily decorated with Italian flags fluttering off balconies, streetlamps, and gracing store windows. With so many treasures of places to choose from, I would begin a Golden Day in Torino with a visitRead More →

Palermo is a city of so many fascinating layers, that the best way to experience it is to have a savvy local by your side. Here’s where Passage to Sicily comes in. It’s an association that offers  small group tours all over Sicily for culturally curious travelers, led by scholars, writers, and architects who bring their unique insights into Sicilian life and culture. My Roman friend, the wonderful Petulia Melideo of  Context Travel, highly recommends Passage to Sicily–and since my experiences on walking tours with Context  in Rome, Florence, Venice, and Naples have been so amazing, I’m glad to know that a similar organization exists for myRead More →

Finally we’ll explore Palermo—the first place many land in Sicily. What struck me about Palermo the first time I visited years ago was the strong Arabic influence that reveals itself in stunning architecture, colorful mosaics, and delicious ornate sweets. A Golden Day for me in Palermo is exploring La Kalsa, a quiet neighborhood where crumbling baroque buildings, Spanish-Moorish architecture, and artists’ studios blend together in an atmosphere that retains an exotic sense of the Arab port it once was. Take note that Monday is NOT the day for this, as many of the highlights are closed. A good place to start is the Palazzo Abatellis,Read More →