Where HBO’s “My Brilliant Friend” was filmed…
300 Gradini, means 300 steps, which is how you get from the road, Via Flacca, to this dreamy stretch of beach clubs. It’s part of a beautiful coastline south of Rome, named The Riviera of Ulisse, as it is said that Circe lured Ulysses and his crew here… and they stayed an entire year.
I was lured to 300 Gradini, by Eleanore Ferrante’s “Neapolitan Novels” — that led to HBO making an extraordinary series of the first three books — with more to come. In the story, scenes take place at the beach of Cetara in Ischia, but for the series they were filmed at 300 Gradini.
You can’t see the beach from the road, so you get a great gasp of discovery on your walk down, as it slowly appears through the shady pines.
And then there you are on a wide beach of soft white sand, sparkling turquoise water…Imagine Lenu having her swim, Lila and Nino finding secret places among the rocks, Bruno and Pinuccia sneaking away…
I went here in June, via taxi from Gaeta’s centro storico, for 15 euros, thanks to driver Massimo Tajani ‘s wonderful car service. By the way, Massimo did ask that we not get back in his car with ANY SAND — as he keeps his cars immaculate.
The 300 Gradini beach club has a fun vibe, family run, with a younger crowd than the beachgoers at Gaeta’s more well known beach, Serapo. It’s also less expensive than the Serapo clubs, with seating a little less regimented. I was happy with my view…
Lunch was simply delicious, with mozzarella from Campania, prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, marinated eggplant, and of course the most scrumptious Gaeta olives.
This beach has been awarded a Blue Flag, meaning it has clean waters and is environmentally in good shape. The water was shallow and I could practically walk into the cool coves on the north end.
Rocks were covered with mussels that were being gathered up by an elderly signor with his net. The backdrop of the whole scene, cliffs covered in Mediterranean scrub, added to the beauty.
300 Gradini is truly a paradise…one of those places where you simply surrender to Dolce far Niente =The Sweetness of Doing Nothing.
My friend Sheila and I took our departure slowly.
It was close to closing time when we showered all the sand off our feet according to Massimo’s request.
And the 300 steps seemed so easy after that blissful day.
For more advice about beaches and wonderful places in Italy, check out my book
