Many years ago, when I was writing the Active Adventures chapter in 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go, I had the great fortune to meet the fabulous, fun-loving Barbara Kossy, a California based Italofile who designs and organizes kayaking tours in Elba, Sicily and Sardinia. She describes them as “Soft adventures. We sleep in a hotel every night and can wash the salt out of our hair before dinner. ” They give travelers a great social experience, meeting kayakers from all over the world, and combine explorations by kayak around the destinations with hiking and great food. Barbara is also inspired by Italian style, and has recently started sewing and touring designer outlets in Naples and Milan.
Here’s Barbara’s advice for a Golden Day in San Pantaleo, Sardinia…
Spend just 1 Euro and in 30 minutes you can reach San Pantaleo by bus from Olbia. The 601 runs every three hours and will drop you right in front of Hotel San Pantaleo.
San Pantaleo is a small arty hill town framed by the rock walls of “Le Dolomiti” di San Pantaleo.
The walk-able center has a lovely square and church. Around every corner you’ll find another fascinating shop with temping rugs, paintings, clothing, ceramics, and even unique and stylish hammered metal wall sconces.
The town’s Thursday Market is a large lively scene, popular with locals and full of arts and crafts, local fruit and vegetables, cheese, honey, housewares, and clothing. Not all the fashions are cheap, but are fun and trendy and at better prices than nearby Costa Smeralda Shopping centers.
Don’t miss the “Blacksmith of San Pantaleo”, the shop of Davide Salinas, La Bottege del Ferro Battuto (Via Molise, 21, 07020,0789/65414), who actually specializes in beaten metal artwork, some plain and some fancifully painted. If you stop in while he’s there you can watch him work and take a short stairway to his second level gallery.
The main road through town can become congested mid-day, so plan accordingly. For a kayaking experience, reserve an Outdoor adventure with Claudio Desiati.(327 195 0909) of Sardinian Discoveries, based in San Pantaleo . He is a licensed adventure guide and offers anything from a day of tranquil kayaking, to snorkeling, SUP, hiking archaeological sites and even Jeep tours. I’ve been kayaking with Claudio for years and appreciate his local knowledge and fun spirit. If you are looking for a great place for lunch, stop at Zara Cafe(59 Via Zara | Localita San Pantaleo comune di Olbia, 8852981) Our kayaking group had a hearty meal of local specialties and house cannonau red wine, and by the time we left we felt like part of the family. Someone wanted to take the chef home with her. Instead we all shared a warm parting hug. When we chose a spot for lunch the next day, it was natural that we returned to Zara.
Or stroll along to Ichnos Pizzaria (Via Zara 54, 078965443) one of the social centers of San Pantaleo, popular with locals and tourists. You can enjoy the sublime pizza on an open air terrazza. Be forewarned: Sandrino is the infamous “crazy waiter” of Ichnusa. I was there with a group of seven, helping my monolingual American friends. Ordering was a surreal experience, Be patient and enjoy the dissonance. The pizza will be worth the wait. If you need some down time, sip a crisp prosecco by the pool at Hotel San Pantaleo on a do-nothing afternoon or drive down the hill to the sand sun and sea of Portisco Beach.
Hotel San Pantaleo (Via Zara, 39, 07026, 078965260) is set apart by distinctive use of wood and stucco that’s modern yet mountain lodge cozy.
Our kayaking group were well taken care of by the helpful staff who served an abundant breakfast featuring fresh local pastries and fruit. Throughout the lobby area and on the dinner tables you’ll enjoy the clean lines of bowls, plates, and crocks by a local artist. Some are for sale. The walk to the center of town from the Hotel Pantaleo is short, but there’s no need to leave the hotel for dinner. Their restaurant is one of the best around, featuring seafood and local specialties.
The 2016 Kayaking in Sardinia trip starts in Alghero and then ends up in San Pantaleo…
Click here for more info about Barbara Kossy’s Kayaking Adventures in Italy…Andiamo! I look forward to joining you soon, Barbara!